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Euphoric

by Emily Roscoe

Does the Fashion industry, particularly within print and trend, have a place in a more sustainable future?

bacterial pigments

water pollution

colour

multi-process textiles

About the project

With the ever increasing  rise of fast fashion, quick trends and a throw away culture within the fashion and textile industry, water pollution has increased dramatically and is having a large impact on several key areas contributing to the current environmental crisis.

 

Euphoric is a project researching solutions to decrease the amount of chemicals going into our water as well as our water usage within textile design; while questioning whether the industry as a whole, and specifically seasonal trends and wide varieties of colour and print, have a place in a more sustainable future. This is achieved through designing a textile collection in our current system, and considering the impact of each element through systems thinking.

 
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Small samples of extracted pigment (S.Marcescens).

Serratia Marcescens and  J.Lividum

With one of the key aspects within the Euphoric trend being a variety of bold, bright colours - I decided to work with the bacteria Serratia Marcescens and J.Lividum, due to their natural ability to produce these tones hues and saturation. I experimented with the optimal growth conditions and extraction processes for each bacteria, as well as its ability to mix with natural dyes created from either extracts or waste.

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Small samples of extracted pigment (S.Marcescens).

Collected bacteria (S.Marcescens).

S. Marcescens LB plate

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S. Marcescens peanut plate

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S. Marcescens optimum growth

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Cellulose nanocrystals on top of bacteria pigment (Cotton).

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Print process

Once the pigment was successfully grown and extracted I explored natural binders mixed with varying levels of calcium carbonate and natural pH catalysts to create a variety of colours and opacities to print with. I also explored other print process alternatives; using mycelium to replace chemicals in both devoré and discharge print, and cellulose nanocrystals to replace chemicals in pearlescent and special effect binders and coatings. 

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Screen-prints with bacteria dye onto natural fabrics.

Mycelium grown onto both velvet, and silk - dyed with J.Lividum.

 
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Initial colours made with S. Marcescens.

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Initial print design from trend research.

Trend: Euphoria S/S 22

 

Testing the living and natural materials’ abilities to keep up with commercial fashion, following a key trend and aiming to meet the same criteria and standards as current methods were crucial elements to the project.

 

The ‘Euphoric’ trend offered a perfect opportunity to do this: graphic prints varying in checks and stripes  to ditsy and retro florals, pushing both the saturation of pigments and printing capabilities to capacity. 

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Cottage check screen print with bacteria and natural dyes.

 
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Emily Roscoe

I am a Surface Pattern and Textile designer who largely focuses on the use of colour and trend within design. I originally graduated from Leeds Arts University, where I developed my skills and interests in both synthetic and natural dyes, trend forecasting, and the impact created from the textile industry on our environment.

 

Over the course of my MA, I have used the new and exciting developments within Biodesign to extend my research and knowledge into  future possibilities, methods and processes intending to provide solutions to help create a more sustainable fashion industry. My work has evolved from a dye lab to a biology lab- combining the two,  to challenge my role and responsibilities as a designer.